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 The motifs that appear on traditional Chinese costumes were identical to those found on ceramics and lacquers. Motifs found on Chinese robes reveal a particular symbolic culture. More than being decorative, they denote social standing, moral messages, and tell historical and legendary stories.
Emperors from the Han (206 BC- 220 AD) to the Ming (1368-1644) dynasties had their robes decorated with all of the "twelve symbols." The symbols consist of, in an order of importance, the sun, the moon, the constellations, mountain, dragon, flowery creature, sacrificial vessel, water plant, flames, grain, axe-head, and the "Fu". The Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), however, elevated the symbol of a dragon, which was part of the "Twelve Symbols", as the main symbol used on imperial robes.
The origins of the "twelve symbols" are vague but they seem to relate to a time when the emperor made sacrifices at imperial altar s. The sacrifices were made at specific times during a year which coincided with the spring and autumn equinoxes and winter and summer solstices. Emperors would wear specially prepared robes with the embroidered "twelve symbols" to make these sacrifices.
It's recorded that only emperors could wear robes embellished with all of the "twelve symbols." Officials were only allowed to wear robes decorated with some of the "twelve symbols," and the social status of an individual decided what kinds of symbols would be used. For example, a robe for a higher official might be decorated with eight symbols, ranging from dragon to the "Fu".
- The Sun, the Moon, and the Constellation
The sun, the moon and the constellation symbolize the light and wisdom of the emperor shining upon the world. These three symbols are celestial and relate to the measurement of time. The mountain stands for the earth and clouds, the latter producing rain that bring benefits to the world. Mountain is used to symbolize the overwhelming power of emperors.
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| | Dragon | Flowery Creature | Sacrificial Vessel |
The dragon symbolizes the adaptability of the emperor and his willingness to change laws according to the needs of his people. This is due to the link the dragon has with the changing of the seasons. The dragon is a very important symbol associated with the spring and symbolizes transformation and productive force. In the spring the dragon ascends to the skies, and in autumn, it buries itself in the watery depths. It covers itself with mud in the autumnal equinox, and emerges in the spring, thus announcing by its awakening the return of nature's energies. The motif of dragon, symbolizing emperors and their imperial power, was on every court robe. But the number and placement of dragons on the robes varied depending upon the rank of officials. The flowery creature may represent a constellation called "Red Bird" which was located in the southern hemisphere and was visible from late spring through summer. Because of its pleasantly bright and colorful appearance, the flowery creature symbolizes the literary accomplishments of the emperor. The sacrificial vessel is associated with metal and is also called a cup. It's used at sacrificial occasions to contain wine or other offering. The vessel on emperors' robes symbolizes their ability to pacify any rebellion and rule all over the country.
Water is always represented on the hem of a robe. Emerging from this symbol is the water plant. The water plant is also indicative of purity of innocence. Flames were used in daily activities such as firing pottery and cooking. It's used to symbolize the enhancement of the imperial power. Fire also symbolizes the summer solstice. Grain is the basis of all food, and as part of the "Twelve Symbols" symbolizes that the emperor is the mainstay for the people. Grain is also used to indicate an abundant amount of salary for court officials.  |  | The Fu
| Axe-head |
The Axe-head is a symbol of emperors' capability to make quick decisions, and their power over difficult situations, life and death, times of war and famine. The Fu symbolizes the capability of distinguishing evil from good. The Fu is connected to the winter solstice and represents emperors and their subordinates working together. - Crane

The image of a crane with its wings out stretched and one leg raised up is a symbol of longevity. This longevity symbol when combined with a spotted deer and the pine is known as the 'prolonged life' design. The crane could also be found on civil officials' robes to depict social ranks. The bird was a symbol of literary elegance and, therefore, an appropriate creature to designate civil officials who had gained their position through examination based on the classics of the Confucian canon. 2. Geometric Patterns Geometric patterns are used as borders or as bands along garments for added decoration. Two common patterns are the meander pattern and the key pattern. One of the oldest pattern types is the swastika. In China the swastika became a Buddhist symbol for luck sometime after 200 AD. It is also the shortened form for the number ten thousand, and this indicates longevity. ·Bats Bats and happiness are both pronounced fu, therefore bats stand for happiness. It is occasionally represented in a very ornate manner and can be mistaken for a butterfly. ·Butterfly The Butterfly is a popular symbol in Chinese embroidery. It is the symbol of summer and joy. ·Water motif The water motif was very popular on Chinese garments and is always found on the bottom portion of a robe. Diagonal stripes represent the depths of the waters. At the front and back and on either side of a garment, a mountain can be found which seams to emerge from the foamy waves. The mountain is said to represent an ancient belief; China believed that the earth was a land surrounded by four oceans.
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